Cold Weather

Here in the central Philippines, about 10 degrees above the equator, sweating is a pastime; almost a hobby. A temperature drop, like the one we’ve had recently, is a shocking experience for those unaccustomed to the bitter cold of more temperate climes. The folks here are just not used to it and winter attire is as common as air conditioning in the Arctic.

A ‘low pressure’ settled in about two weeks ago and we’ve had nothing but rain and cold. Since that time, the low pressure became a tropical storm, and has since been upgraded to a tropical depression. I don’t understand weather terminology: How can a depression be an ‘upgrade’? Think how low a person would have to sink in order to upgrade to a depression? But the weather does it all the time. And why tell us about the pressure, in the first place? We don’t give a tinker’s damn about pressure! We want to know if it is going to be rainy or sunny; cold or hot. We can’t feel atmospheric pressure. We can’t see it or hear it or smell it. We see rain. We feel it. We feel cold and hot. I believe those meteorologists should just stick to studying meteors and leave the weather to us common folk.

There’s a restaurant that sits by the pier in Ft. Myers Beach, Florida. On the ocean side of the outdoor dining area is a twenty pound stone, tied to a stout rope, hanging out over the water. It’s called a “weather rock”. When the rock is wet, it’s raining; when dry, it is not. If you can see it, it is daylight; if not, it’s night. If it is rocking to and fro, gale force winds are in effect. That rock is, in essence, an authority on current weather conditions. Granted, it might lack the ability to predict, but so do the weather people. For anyone who hasn’t got the sense to step in out of the rain, they can depend on the accuracy of that rock, more than that of the weather channel – pressure be damned!


Back to the cold snap: Fortunately for me, I’ve had a lifetime of experience with below-freezing temperatures, snow, sleet, icy roads, thick frost on the windows and finger-numbing cold that carries a bite. But I left my thermals and down coat back in the States. Kind of dumb, I know! But I never expected the temperature to plummet to the lower 70’s.

Dog Party?

I read Shane a story every evening entitled "Dog Party". It is a read-aloud story for pre-readers. If you're four years old, it's a spellbinder. Shane can't get enough of it. She lies beside me in bed with eyes wide and a big smile, anxiously awaiting the latest version of this tale. (I make up a new version of the story with each reading.)

If children weren't so cute and full of excitement for life - which we adults become out of touch with over the years - they would be abandoned early on. No right-minded adult could read this story night after night and keep a semblance of sanity. But we are nuts about our kids, as nature intended us to be.

So I read this stupid tale about a bunch of dogs climbing a ladder to have a party at the top of a tree. I read it over and over, each evening. I try to talk her into another story, one that has more appeal, in my opinion. But no, she is adamant about having "Dog Party" read one more time, each and every night.

It doesn't help that dogs have occupied way too much of my thinking lately. I see puppies being born every week and watch them turn to smashed meat on the highway. No one cares. I have become immune to their dismal destinies as road kill, objects for kicking, rock and knife throwing, neglect and worse: Clyde once threw a pot of boiling water on a dog that lived with us at the rental property about 2 years ago. He thought nothing of it. I had an instantaneous urge to inflict some pain upon Clyde. But then I thought about how Clyde was beaten by his father and decided "violence for violence" would not serve as a tool for positive change. I kicked a tire. Then we talked.

The dog that we have now, Toytoy, has a four inch trench on his back where Joseph hit the mark he intended when he threw his machete when the dog was still a pup.

A few days ago, Clyde and Joseph brought home a puppy. They treated it lovingly, as most people do to their young, cute dogs. They were both surprised and disappointed when I told them I didn't want another dog living with us.

A large percentage of the dogs that survive puppy-hood live half-starved and/or victims of mange, their fur falling out and the skin then exposed to severe sunburn. These and other throw-aways walk the streets from garbage can to garbage can after dark.Their bodies are often full of scars or bleeding wounds from fights with other dogs over scraps of food or mating rights.

Apparently, compassion for animals is not something inborn. Many otherwise-loving people are indifferent or cruel to their pets.

I can't help but think about the implications for how we humans treat each other, and justify it according to race, belief, perceived worthiness, or even something as simple as geographic location: It's over there. I'm not responsible for them.

Thanks guys!

November 03, 2013


It’s 1AM on Sunday. I’m having coffee and choco-bread while I write at the kitchen table. The crickets are in concert in the jungle-of-a-yard beside ours. 

Time slips by lazily when you live by an ocean which attunes your life to its rhythms. Nothing hurries the waves and the tides, nor slows them down. The pace is relaxed and persistent, almost monotonous, save for the beauty of the moving water and the hypnotic sound of the softly-crashing sea, from sunup to sundown.

It's a lesson in living: steady as you go. Don't be hurried and let your deeper waters be undisturbed.

Clyde and Joseph just walked in from their latest adventure. Clyde’s life has slowly come to revolve around the sea. Joseph’s life has always been about the sea. The ocean and its life are in his belly and his blood. His father, Istan, is a fisherman whose livelihood depends on the day’s catch.

Right now the two boys are cooking the small fish that they caught from the seawall across the street. Their catch will be made into inan onan: fish cooked in vinegar, salt, onions and garlic. The two octopi Joseph yanked from under the rocks are in an adjoining caldera (pot), on the other burner of the stove.

It has been a delight for me to witness the excitement of these two boys, as they charge ahead in whatever activity has captured their hearts for the moment: swimming, fishing, catching octopus or resting - between bouts of energetic, water-related activities - on the seawall or at the guardhouse that sits over the beach, a block away.

I feel like a teenager again when I see Clyde bound out of his room in the morning and head for the brine. Sometimes he doesn't stop for breakfast or even to relieve his bladder. Joseph is always right behind, but stays around long enough to do some chores first, a responsibility which Clyde will jump over or run around with the combined, practiced skills of a hurdler and a wide receiver.

Witnessing the exuberance of the two of them has taken me back to the long-forgotten experience of pure joy at being totally involved in nature’s gifts and the spontaneity of living from the heart, in full appreciation for life. 






Tuko and Me

Saturday, October 12, 2013


It is 9:45 PM and I am sitting in the kitchen with a tuko lizard on the ceiling above my head. He’s about 8 inches long: shorter than my foot. We’re not much afraid of each other. Just enough to induce a mutual respect, I would say. I could stomp him to death; he could give me a bite to remember. But hey, we’re not in competition here. I don’t eat bugs and mice and he won’t eat anything which refuses to crawl, fly, slither or hop.

It’s a kind of unspoken agreement. I give him a place to hang out - with family if he so desires - and he helps keep the population down to 5 people, one dog, an occasional unwary pest, and a horde of transient ants (not his cup of tea).

Emelie had a family of tukos living in the tiny bedroom of her mountain home and she never had a run-in with one of them. But she did get bit by one when she was young, while climbing to the top of a coconut tree. He was on the other side of the tree when she reached around to get a hand-hold.

The lizards, and any other animal life that live at the top of the coconut tree (including rats and bats) can bask in the relief of knowing that I will never be climbing a tree to greet them.

Mr. Tuko here is just a young one. He will grow a couple more inches and fatten up considerably. In the house we rented before building this one, we had one living behind our dresser, where he rested up during the day for his nighttime foraging. He lived there a year and then disappeared for another year and finally came back to stay.

I like lizards and snakes, which is, I suppose, on the outer fringe of the American-standard-attitude toward such beasts.

Hopeful

I didn’t feel so good this morning. I woke up wishing I hadn’t. My wife wrapped her body around me and held me until …until Shane pried her way between us and nested there like a worm in wet spaghetti. We laid motionless and all-huggy as if we were holding out for something spectacular enough to give us a reason to disengage and start the day.

For me, it didn’t happen. My lungs were dragging along in ‘sorry ass’ mode most of the day. My recollection of the rest of the day resides in that part of my brain where memories are wrapped in a self-protective haze and labeled “Do Not Open sans ‘Fresh Perspective’!” 

I think the fresh perspective might just be getting a foot-hold. Tonight I feel much better, and tomorrow holds the possibility that there could be another jewel-of-a-moment for me when my wife, the sun and daughter arise. 

A Settled Routine of Enjoyment

Since I got back from Ohio, more than two months ago now, my days have been running consistently along the lines of  the daily family life we've formed into a tradition: Up about 5:30. A quick snack. (Maybe a banana or two.) Fill the water bottle and we're off.

With Shane in the basket behind me, sitting on a folded towel for comfort, I hop on my bike and we ride north for 5 miles, through the small settlements that run along the road, close to the sea. Most of this part of the world is awake and getting ready for school or work or cleaning their yards and burning leaves. Almost everyone smiles and says "Maayong buntag!" Good morning!

There is something very satisfying about this regular and predictable lifestyle, like listening to my heartbeat.

Shane chatters excitedly the whole way, in English, and about everything she sees: the ocean (her ocean), the cows, pigs, goats, carabaw, birds, snakes, banana trees, coconut trees, people she sees and on and on. All belong to her.

"Where's my snake, hon hon?"
The snake has been dead and gone for weeks but she stills asks about it.

"Look hon, a cat! I want to pet the cat! That's my momma cat."
"Where's the kitten, hon?"
Every cat is either "momma", "poppa" or "kitten", and every adult has a baby.

"I want bread, hon hon."

This morning, as we approach the town of Malabuyoc,  I see my friend Alejandro, who owns a herd of goats and takes them to feed where the grass is green and long, a short ways from his house and along the coastal road. We stop and chat for a while. I speak to Alejandro in a combination of Cebuano and English. He is patient with me as he listens and corrects when necessary, without condescension.

His largest goat is a young billy, and very friendly. Shane sits on his back while I hold her. Alejandro is 88. Shane calls him lolo: grandfather. When I am chatting comfortably with Alejandro, I always feel like I'm talking with someone I've known longer than I've been alive.

After saying goodbye, we ride back home but make several stops along the way so Shane can get a closer look  at whatever grabs her attention. For me, bike riding with her is a great way to relax and connect with my little girl, giving her the attention she wants, and sharing in her delight as she moves from one small-but-enormous adventure to another.

A final stop at the mom-and-pop bakery for coconut bread, then home: about 6:45AM. There is still time for Shane to bathe, eat and get ready for her two hours of daycare at the barangay hall, just down the street.

I take her to school in the tricycle or the bike, or we walk. If walking, we stop for a few minutes in the cemetery.  Shane has been talking - a lot lately - about death and the cemetery, and especially about her grandmother (lola), who died many years ago and who she has never known.

The residents are quiet. They listen respectfully to a little girl trying to work out a concept of life and death. I do the same kind of listening, keeping my ears tuned to a child whose questions may just be more enlightening than the stock answers I've been taught and have repeated as truth since I was a child.

These moments are precious, as I watch the blooming of this little flower and experience the irony of this moment, in this place of death.

It's just another day, filled with the golden nuggets of time that children catch and make meaningful, with their magic.

Don't Forget the Legs. Mmmmmm...!

I was watching our teenage boys play, while toying lazily with my food.

"So, the winner eats the loser?” I asked.

“Yes” replied Clyde.

“Sounds delicious!” I exclaimed.

Clyde chuckled. 

It was after dark, on another peaceful evening, following a relaxing day without event. I could hear the playful splashing of the ocean against the seawall, across the street. 

We were sitting around the kitchen table. Clyde and Joseph were teasing their fighting spiders into a frenzy; readying them for battle. One dropped from the broom-straw Clyde held in his hand. It hit the table and sprinted in front of my plate of sardines and rice. I blocked it with my hand and Clyde reclaimed it.

Each boy had a straw with two live spiders on it and one dead spider dangling from the straw and ensconced in a cocoon of spider silk. These dead ones were the losers from the previous fights. The victors will eat them at their leisure. The live spiders were bungee-jumping on their silk, to get away from each other on the straws. The boys caught them before they hit the table (most of the time), wrapped their silk around the straw and encouraged the spiders to fight.

I finished my food, had a few sips of coconut wine, and fell into a reverie about my life here in the Philippines. It really isn't much different than life in the United States, I thought. I eat, I sleep; do a little work now and then. We go for rides in the tricycle, take trips to the island across from us and trips to Cebu City sometimes. 


Yup! Just an ordinary life... once you get used to it.

Shane's Eye - Update

September 24, 2013

Shane needs her lens replaced and her cornea sutured, in her right eye, ASAP. The doctor said time is of essence because the cornea has a tear and the contents of her eyeball could burst through the tear, and she would lose her eye.

I’m going to get up early tomorrow morning and start my search for a sack of money along the roadside. And after I find it, I’m going to call up that doctor and say “Schedule the surgery doc! We found a sack of money by the road and we’re ready!”

I've always been a fan of good fortune. Clean living, pure thoughts and prayer never did me much good. And my hard-work ethic has always been profitable for the company that employed me. But when Lady Luck smiles my way, I recognize it for what it is, and an inner smile of gratitude pervades the very soul of me and gives me comfort.

When trouble comes, I know that good luck is just around the corner. Religion works pretty much the same way. It soothes and comforts, but for the price of selling your soul to the devil in the white collar, who has a plan all laid out for your life which includes a profit for his company, the church. Someone once said that a sucker is born every minute, but the religions of the world know for a fact that the frequency is much higher.

Shane can’t see anything with her right eye. When the left one is covered, the right just rolls around looking for something that she knows is there but won’t come into view. My little girl is in a stew of trouble but she doesn’t even know it. Or else she just has some instinctive wisdom that keeps her happiness afloat. With a regular habit of giggling with delight, she knows that life is both fun and funny. I keep trying to figure out what natural phenomenon that is, and why I’ve allowed it to be taken away and replaced with a fear for living without a god, the bible and the chosen messenger who can show me the way to happiness while I tread through a world of sin and the certain destruction of my soul if I don’t believe. Our Father, indeed!

Shane will be fine. Emelie and I will make sure she is.

It’s 4 AM. She just got up to pee and see what Hon Hon is doing. She’s sitting right beside me at the kitchen table, drawing monsters on paper while I type. Heads are circles, half circles, triangles and squares (she likes sponge bob). It’s a joint project. I’m assigned the task of putting on the hands and arms. She does the body, legs and feet. I don’t have to do a perfect job. She’s no critic.

It’s hard to keep her voice at a whisper while everyone else sleeps. Just that excitement in her that is so familiar to all of us. It can’t be contained or quieted. When I go back to sleep in a little while, she will do her best to keep me awake until I ask her to leave me alone, for the umpteenth time. And then she’ll nod off until dawn. When she wakes up, I need to be fresh and ready for a full day of questions, suggestions and an invitation to join in whatever activity she has in mind.

Didn't know I could do this childhood thing again, but the second time is all the fun without the scraped knees, disappointments and bewilderments of being a 4 year-old in a world of insane adults who can’t seem to remember what it’s like to make enjoyment a priority.


I’m learning.

The Consequences of Poking Around

August, 2013

Five weeks ago, Shane stuck a sharp object in her eye. The end of the bottle opener was more like a weapon of child destruction than a tool of peaceful living. She was pretending to open coke bottles when the accident occurred. Emelie and I didn't see it happen. We heard crying and saw her with her face in her hands.

Like all concerned parents, we imagined the worst and hoped for the best. It seems the former is more likely to be the result. I tested her sight yesterday by covering one eye and and asking her to identify simple objects which I held in my hand. The first clue to her lack of vision was her eye's inability to settle down and focus on the object just a few inches in front of her. Her eye roamed around this way and that as if searching for something to see. My heart dropped into a funk of sorrow at the sight of this. And then when I asked her to identify one object at a time, she only guessed and was wrong each time.

I am trying not to act too concerned around her. Her own attitude hasn't changed one iota. She is still the cheerful and happy little girl she's grown into since first coming to us. I want to cry. Is now an okay time?

The eye doctor says he sees signs of a cataract forming. He says she scratched her cornea and hit the lens but he doesn't know how much damage there is, and if it can be repaired, until the eye is healed. We've been taking her to him every Saturday to check the progress of healing.

On a positive note, there has been no infection and she won't lose the eye as long as we keep infection away with the antibiotic cream we apply every three hours.

I don't know what else to tell you. The rest of what could be said is in the realm of feelings and not facts. If you've had children, then you probably already know our sadness and angst.

However, there is one  thing I need to say. What keeps my boat afloat is the fact that Shane has remained on an even keel. If she was an adult, I would suspect that her apparent sense of well-being might be a decided cover for the sake of protecting herself, and us, from true feelings of sadness. But she has yet to learn of such deception and shows her feelings in the moment they occur.

In addition, self-pity is not a part of Shane's program. I suspect she learned to avoid this pitfall from observing my wife. A great role model in not feeling sorry for oneself, she takes life as it comes and plays an active role in her own destiny, without dwelling on the hand she is dealt.

The two of them are a marvel to me.

Four Years of Anything but Boredom

Our anniversary was yesterday. We didn't celebrate. Our plans to do so had to change. And at night, we were both too tired to run up the flag. 

Emelie is out front washing the motorcycle with shampoo, in the pouring rain. Me and Shane and the boys are listening to Frank Zappa belt out “Dirty Love” on the cheap little radio that accepts my flashdrive.

A lot has happened in the past half year. We’re living in our nearly-complete nipa house, made of wood, cement block and bamboo matting over plywood, with a nipa (thatch) roof. Nipa is from the sac sac plant. Looks like palm fronds and is held in place with heavy, nylon fishing line, tied to the bamboo strips that are nailed to roof beams.

When I left for Ohio back in February, only the footing was done. I got back last month and Emelie and the troop had already moved in. She had acquired one dog and one boy since I left. Joseph is Clyde’s best friend and 2 years younger, at 15. He came down from the hill behind us, for a temporary stay. Without an exit date, it’s hard to know the length of ‘temporary’. Anyhow, I like him and Clyde is happy to have him living with us. I’m hoping he rubs off on Clyde just a little. Clyde’s nature is a little loose and carefree. He does just enough to keep himself afloat at school and his chores are often “forgotten”. Joseph has self-discipline aplenty. He gets up early and busies himself immediately with chores: washes the few dishes from the night before; goes home to feed his chickens; washes his clothes and keeps up that pace until leaving for school.

On the other hand, it’s probably good for him to be influenced by Clyde’s wild side. I was that age once. Kids need room to stretch their imaginations and test the limits, as long as they stay safe and out of jail. I’m a firm believer in questioning authority and taking risks that occasionally might lead one outside the box of societal norms. It’s a good exercise to go against the grain once in a while and experience the consequences, when doing so is in the interest of staying true to oneself.

However, for the sake of having a smooth-running household and to instill, in Clyde (hopefully), a sense of responsibility to our extended family, I made a list of Clyde’s duties and made it clear that his ability to stay with us is primarily dependent on carrying out his duties, without reminders. He’s back on track and a real pleasure to live with. I’m glad he is with us.

When I was growing up, our family had occasions when we would laugh and sing and dance together - laugh at each other’s foolishness until our sides ached. We’d rest up and start again. It was a strong part of the glue that held us together, in a very healthy way. I guess I never gave much importance to it at the time, and only realize how good it was for us, in retrospect.

It’s a daily exercise with Emelie and Shane and me. We tickle and laugh and kiss and hug and tease each other from the moment we wake up. Shane got caught up in this ritual at an early age and often takes the lead. It truly sets the tone for our day and our lives together.

I forgot to mention the dog, When I first laid eyes on him, he was laying on the porch recuperating from the many bites on his face and back that resulted from a scrap with another dog or dogs. Today he got hit by a tricycle-taxi. He survived and has been resting up the last few hours. His wounds haven’t prevented him from sitting patiently while Shane hugs him like a wrestler and ties him up with a strap. Toytoy was the dog of Limwel, our friend and one of the guys who helped build our new house. Toytoy followed his master to work every day and hung around after Limwel went home. Emelie, who admonished me once or twice in the past not to feed dogs who don’t belong to us, started doing exactly that.

The boys and I separated the motor scooter from the side-car yesterday. It’s the time of year to make the 190 kilometer round-trip to Car Car, a suburb of Cebu City, to register our scooter. It is a beautiful drive traveling north along the coast and then through the mountains as we cross the province from west to east. It takes us between 3 and 4 hours of driving each way.

Vehicle registration is a good example of how the Philippine government flips the bird to its people. There are only two places to register in this province. One is in Cebu City and the other is just a short distance away from the first, in Car Car. Most of the people who own motorcycles use them daily as part of their business of transporting people and goods to and from their homes in the mountains. Profits are very slim and competition is great. It's a meager way to scratch out a living. The price of gas is very high, even though we are located much closer to the oil-rich suppliers than those who live in the United States.

The price of traveling to the registration office is more than a day’s wages for those who live a long way from the cities. Consequently, most guys who depend on their bikes for a living, don’t bother to register, but they run the risk of having their vehicles confiscated at a random road check, a “checkpoint”. (Most of them also lack driver's licenses, for the same reasons.)

The Land Transportation Office is cluttered with confiscated vehicles which they auction off to the public. This is a very lucrative business for the government, but unfortunately, only a misdemeanor crime compared to the many other ways the government robs from the poor to maintain the "high life" living styles of the rich families who own and run the country for their profit. The poor who are raped by this system are mostly complacent and grateful for the pittance the government sends them in the form of social welfare programs that do absolutely nothing to improve the overall lot of the people. Okay, I put away the soap box, for now.


Our little girl is spending the night with her grandma and grandpa. The house is a vacuum of silence. Shane's smiles aren't bouncing off the walls and lighting up the rooms. I'm tired. But not so much so that I couldn't hold her in my arms, tickle her, sing a few songs, rock her gently, carry on a conversation that lets me know she is always thinking and growing in awareness. It's child talk, reflecting the fresh perspective that she brings with her. There is honesty in everything she says. She doesn't hesitate to ask questions. No concern for her ignorance or its affect on others.

Sardines and Pancakes; Getting Better

I've been here in Ohio for 1 month plus, now. Came back with the hope of stopping this damn whirling around on the health/sickness wheel. I'd been having bouts of illness, of various kinds and degrees, for over a year. Couldn't seem to get out from under the curse, so it seemed. The last go-around was with a bug in my belly, and intestines. Doc said it was either a bacteria or an amoeba. I spent four days in the hospital with sugar water and antibiotics going in my veins. The food was horrendous and unhealthy: salt-laden and floating in grease - I guess it was to protect their future as healthcare providers by ensuring my return as a heart patient.

I have Cystic Fibrosis and Chronic Fatigue. Sounds a bit much, doesn't it? Kind of hard to believe? Does the word 'hypochondriac' come to mind? I know. But that ain't me. When I feel good, I'm ready to jump up and get involved, and forget that there was ever anything wrong with me. But then, with all the acute illnesses, I was beginning to wonder if I was every going to experience a healthy day again. Seems my immunity just packed up and left. I caught everything that came around, and then some. And every time I just got my foot in the doorway to good health, another bacteria or virus or allergy or god-knows-what jumped in and kicked my butt again.

In desperation, I left for home - the home of my birth, good old Massillon, Ohio - in the middle of winter. I didn't even mind the freezing temperatures.

Now I'm much better. I don't know if its because of the AHCC, beta glucans, the colloidal silver, the change of atmosphere, or getting away from that little house with all its dirt, bugs and animals infesting the crawl space between the ceiling and the roof. Lizard poop, bird remains (the lizard eats the birds that come to nest), mold, roaches and a host of microscopic thingies that hang out in that kind of joint, are just a few feet above our heads as we eat, sleep and do our daily routines. It would be naive to think that some of that stuff doesn't float down and filter through the seams in the ceiling tiles. (I sometimes see strange things in my soup that weren't intended to be part of the recipe).

But I'm on the mend. Yes sir; yes ma'am. That's the important thing. However, there's a price for my good fortune: I don't get to curl up next to my wife at night and wake up to a hug and kiss before I start the day. I don't get the little-girl kisses on my nose when I'm sleeping or the opportunity to watch her delight as she swims in the ocean, across the street.

It's okay. I feel good! And I'm  going back to my Philippine home and family in July. I'll be ready.

Oh! Sardines and pancakes? Had 'em for breakfast. Bought smoked sardines packed in maple syrup (swear to gods) at the local grocery. Pancakes was the obvious choice for accompaniment, right? The verdict? Just have to try it for yourself. Good luck! Hint: Try it with butter and keep a barf bag handy.

Corne's Store

It's a little mom-and-pop-type convenience store, owned by Cora and Ne Ne, that sits on the corner of the main road going north and south along the western coast of Cebu Island, and the little mountain road going up to Emelie's house and beyond. Cora is Emelie's cousin. Ne Ne is a relative as well. The place is usually busy, as it serves the mountain people coming to town or going home, who want load (minutes) for their cell phones, cigarettes, beer and pop and other sundries.

The store is in the front part of an old, wooden house, close to the street. The front is opened up with a half-wall going from ground level up to about 4 feet and a wooden counter on the top of it. Customers rest an elbow on the counter to order, quench their thirst, smoke or have a snack while chatting with the owners or other customers. Cigarettes can bought one at a time for a peso - about two and a half cents. Lighters hang down from the ceiling on strings over the counter. Its not unusual to see a small child standing on tiptoes, pulling herself up with one hand, while holding a peso in the other, waiting patiently to buy a piece of candy from one of the candy jars.

There are always a few folks sitting on the weathered old bench out front to watch the traffic go by, or wait for a habal habal (motorcyle-taxi) driver to take them back up the mountain.

Relatives and friends who come down from the mountain often hang out in the common room of the house and chat with whomever is there. They are always invited to eat when its meal time. Emelie and I have eaten there several times. There are a couple of bamboo couches where you can relax, get a massage from Cora's sister, Fe, drink beer, chat or take a nap. Done them all, myself. More than once.

If you find yourself standing around, you might be buying something one moment and waiting on customers the next. It's hard to know who is an employee and who is just helping out for the moment. Girlie works at the store on Tuesdays. Josephine comes with her baby when she's needed. Emelie's sister, Jane, helps when she's there, carrying her little girl, Mimi, in her arms. Any of the other relatives will lend a hand when they happen to be hanging out. It gets a little crowded at times, but Filipinos, even if they might bump into one another in close quarters, are never guilty of stepping on toes. Just part of their culture: never offend, if you can help it.

A Small Bakery, Philippine Style

I mentioned, in a previous post, about a delicious bread they call coco bread. It is made in small, mom-and- pop bakeries just about everywhere in the area. The coco bread has a fresh, coconut filling in the middle of a delicious roll.
Kneeding the dough between rollers

Well, here are some pictures of a bakery just about a kilometer from our house. The bakery takes up most of the small home of the couple who own it. The two are hard working: they both bake and take turns driving their tricycle-taxi, like the one Emelie and I use to transport ourselves and family around town, only they use theirs, picking up passengers for 7 peso a ride, to add income to the small profit they make from the bakery.*

Their cocobread is the best I've eaten from the several bakeries in the area that make the same bread.


Baking pans with rolls waiting to go into the oven
From Scratch:
The bread dough is mixed then put through rollers to kneed, then laid on a large table where the baker pulls off just the right size chunks of dough and places them on baking pans. His practiced hands move very quickly. No measuring is done but all his rolls are exactly the same size and shaped perfectly into the several kinds of rolls he is making.



Two oil drums made into an oven
When the oven is hot and the rolls are ready, the pans are put into the oven, which is made of two, fifty-five gallon drums laid down,placed side by side and surrounded by concrete blocks cemented together for support and insulation.Dried sticks of wood are fed into the cavity under the ovens, on ther right-hand side. After 30 years of baking bread, the baker knows just how much wood to use to get the oven to operating temperature. No thermometer is used, either. The temperature is adjusted only by how much wood he feeds into the oven's bottom. And he pulls the bread from the oven whenever he thinks it is time, without using a  timer.




Halfway through the baking process, the rolls are removed and the pans are turned around 180 degrees, for even baking, because the ovens do not heat evenly throughout. The red dot in the center of each roll distinguishes the coco bread from other filled rolls of the same shape. These are starting to look pretty darn good!





The finished product : Coco bread!



Well, here is the fresh-baked coco bread, hot and delicious. Just wonderful with a cup of coffee or hot chocolate. Three is my minimum and maximum. Never less, never more.

Hats off to the Filipinos who are small business owners, like the man and woman who own this bakery. Their profit margin is slim, yet they work all day long, seven days a week to support their families.

*At the request of the owners, I have not mentioned their names.

Shall We Meet at, Say, Tomorrowish?

August 13, 2012

It's just another evening. We came to the internet cafe somewhere between 7 and 7:30PM, not really caring exactly where the minute hand fell within that window of time.  That's a reflection of our lifestyle; of the Philippine lifestyle, actually. In this age of precision and exactitude, with atomic clocks that err no more than a second a year, a sundial would be too much accuracy - a show of obsession about time - for most Filipinos. In fact, meetings are made for morning, afternoon or evening, or after one of the three major meals, with no mention of time.

We have attended PTA meetings for Clyde, Jan Mark, Frederick and Gabriel, and grade report meetings for those same boys, as well. On one of our first such attendances, the meeting was scheduled for 1PM at Kabatuan School. At 2PM, Emelie was still relaxing on the porch with a cup of coffee, while listening to the drama that drones on for hours from morning till late afternoon, 6 days a week. I asked her if we were still going to the school for the meeting. She said that, indeed, we were. Then she was silent, as if the subject was given all the attention it needed. 

"Well," I said, "Shouldn't we be going then? It's two PM now!"

She looked at her watch and yawned. "No hurry." She said. "It won't get started till at least three."

At 3PM, Emelie again looked at her watch. She got up slowly, walked to the bedroom and began to undress. I watched with interest, not knowing if she was planning a nap or a change of clothes. Half dressed, she stood still as a statue for a minute and half, and looked as if she was dreaming of far away places and times.

When I asked if we shouldn't be hurrying just a little, her reply was, "I don't want to be one of the first ones there!"

As it turned out, we weren't the first. We were numbers 5 and  6. When we walked into the classroom where the meeting was to be held, the principle was adjusting the microphone volume on his PA system while chatting leisurely with several of his teachers. The others, parents and guardians who were brash enough to show up earlier than we did, were slumped at child-size desks and fanning themselves to blow around the hot air.

Forty five minutes later, the meeting started. Sort of. The exact beginning could not be pinned down, as it began with a discussion of motherhood, tree planting and the nutritional value of certain foods. Given enough latitude, all of these subjects could be said to occupy a place on the periphery of school-related topics.

Gradually, the real meat of school issues began to trickle into the conversation and by 6PM, we were right in the thick of it. Facts and figures flew up on the chalk board. Money, times, dates, grades, attrition rates, etc. It was all there! Elsie was in the top ten but not in the top five. Johnny moved up three positions since last grading period but had not met his goal of surpassing Edna by two positions because Edna had moved up herself. Jan Mark had a perfect attendance record, even though the only class he attended was lunch, The rest of the time, he could be found sitting under the cigarillo tree, doodling in one of his notebooks while resting his head on the pile of school books that he was assigned. Six students departed - though no one died - and one student came back, in his thirties, to finish second grade. A round of applause for all of them.

The end of the meeting was as ambiguous as the beginning. I suppose it was marked by the moment when the first group of late arrivals suddenly rose and walked out, after which, others seemed to spontaneously arise and walk out the door, as well. It was like being at a revival meeting, where the spirit moved a person, but the movement was always in the direction of the exit. Shortly after, the principle himself laid down his microphone and walked out. That was my cue. I rose to leave, intending to follow on his heels, but my wife grabbed my arm and said, "Sit down. It's not over yet."

When I looked at her quizzically, she added, "He just went to pee."

Sure enough, he came back, looking relieved and refreshed; ready for a new onslaught, I'm sorry to say. That man must have read every book on winning friends and influencing people, against their will, but with their full cooperation and a smile to boot.

It ended, eventually. We left.
 




Buy an Old House for a New House? I Wood.

August 9, 2012

Emelie and I bought a piece of property over a year ago, with intentions of building a house on it. We have been saving and spending and saving and spending: ten steps forward and nine steps back. So, we've saved a little but not enough to build a whole house. We could afford about a third of a house right now. I would start with the bathroom, then add a bedroom and then, maybe, if there is still a little money left over, put at least enough of the roof on to shelter what we've made.

Sometimes it seems that my life is nothing more than a cycle of eating, pooping and sleeping. I've always wanted a refrigerator in the bathroom so I wouldn't have to get off the toilet to eat. And with a bed close by, I could just roll over, from the toilet, and fall into bed. It would sure save time and energy, and since we probably wouldn't put a wall between the two rooms right away, for lack of funds, my sicko idea would seem justified. I'm not even going to mention it to my wife, though. (But I don't mind mentioning it to the rest of the world.)

Today I bought a house. It's not anywhere close to our property, and there is nothing left of it but a floor, floor beams, some upright beams and 10 sections of trees used as poles for supporting the entire structure, holding it several feet off the ground. The house is probably around 100 years old. It's way up in the mountains. The road leading to it is rough. It's more like a treacherous path than a real road.

Our plan is to disassemble the house and truck the wood down to our property by the sea. It will take two days to do so - one trip each day. The wood from that old house is a type that is strong, durable, and too hard for termites to eat. It's the best there is here, but no longer available because it is now scarce. And it's illegal to sell or buy new wood or cut the trees. Buying the house was cheaper than buying the same amount of new mahogany or gemelina, the other two hardwoods used for building in this part of the Philippines.

So, part of our new house will be one hundred years old and the house will have a history before we even live in it.



No News on the Home Front

After I wrote the title, I looked at it and thought: Is this really my home? The answer is a big "yes". And that kind of answers another question that might, and probably is, a on a person's mind if they are thinking of moving here. Can I ever feel at home in a foreign country, where I know no one and no one also knows me; where the customs are different, the first language is different, and the people even look different.

Maybe there are places in the world, and even in the Philippines - like the Muslim-dominant parts of Mindanao - that wouldn't be quite so hospitable to a white foreigner who doesn't know the language or the customs. But here in Ginatilan, Cebu, life is easy and pleasant and the locals love foreigners. I honestly feel safer here than in any place I've lived in the U.S. And it is my guess, with input from many friends here, that life anywhere in the Province, outside of the city, is just as friendly and welcoming.

Cities are cities, anywhere. There is always the danger of being accosted by someone whose intentions are not favorable to your welfare. Cebu City is dirty and crowded with smog where the traffic is heaviest. Crime is standard fare.

I really enjoy shopping in Cebu City. The streets are filled with a clutter of small shops, crammed together and harboring just about anything you could want. The malls are modern and a joy to peruse. SM mall is where we always go to buy computers for our internet cafe, or stock up on supplies. The grocery store there has just about everything a modern grocery in the U.S. would offer.

But there are seedy and dirty and smelly parts of the city I would really not want to frequent, let alone live anywhere near. Shanty towns known for drug involvement are visible from the main roads. Poverty sucks but it is particularly nasty in the city where the environment induces children of the poor to become panhandlers, prostitutes and drug addicts.

Travel Calculations

August 1, 2012

My life has been packed to the gills with activity. Time to post and catch up.

When  my friends here in Ginatilan would ask me when I planned to return to the U.S., I would shrug and say "I don't have any plans to return." Shit happens. Plans change. In the middle of June, I was notified that I needed to go back to Ohio to take care of some business, and get it done before July 1st. So, I got a last-minute ticket, hopped the plane and was in Ohio lickety split, compared to any other method of travel.

$2000 is a lot of money to pay for some thirty hours of travel torture. It's not worth putting myself through it all for a just a week in the U.S. and then return home immediately. I decided a month would be about right. I could more-easily justify that 2 grand spent, if I divided it by 30 and thought of it as a daily expense.

So, the sojourn began: Emelie, Shane and I left our house on the first air-conditioned bus heading for Cebu City. Four hours later we were at the south bus terminal, hailing a taxi to take us to Cherry's Pension House in Mandaue, just outside of "the City". After making arrangements for Emelie and Shane for the night, we headed for the airport. My flight to Manila would leave at 10PM.

They dropped me off and went back to the hotel. My God, I felt lonely as I walked through the security check point. I missed my wife and little girl already.

When I got to Manila, I spent the rest of the night laying on a bench outside the International Terminal, waiting for the check-in early the next morning. The plane left at six and headed for Narita, Japan. For some reason beyond my comprehension, we had to deplane in Narita, go through the security check again, then wait at a gate to get back on the same plane we took out of Manila. It's all very official and very senseless. And it takes an additional hour and half or so. Oh well.

From Narita, we headed northwest (or maybe it was northeast, not sure. It doesn't matter much, since the world is mostly round, anyway. You always get to where you're going no matter which direction you start out. If time is a consideration, though, it's best to take the shortest route). Geography was never a subject that caught my interest, but I think we flew over Korea, and Russia and jumped into Canadian airspace on the way to Detroit airport.

Aside:
You know, it's a funny thing, we always think of the world as being divided into countries. It isn't. When you fly over Russia, you see mountains and rivers and lakes; dry areas, wet areas and such. Some snow here; some dessert there. The rest of the world is about the same, with the addition of oceans. Narry an intracontinental boundary, anywhere. Our artificial, political divisions don't really exist.

Someday we may come together as a world team, our political and religious boundaries dissolved, and we will have peace on earth, which means we will be free...free to focus our violence on alien lifeforms and planets everywhere, killing and annihilating all the new "thems" that we've decided are a threat to "us". We'll have an opportunity to create a fresh, new set of differences. "We can drag in our old fears and prejudices and justifications and rocket them to new heights, for the exploitation of our galaxy and beyond. Can't wait. Makes me want to sing the national anthem and vote republican.

Back to Center:
Okay, so, 12 hours of sitting on my ass from Narita to Detroit, with a few meals, a movie or two, a couple of chapters in a novel, one time through the "old geezer" songs of my MP3 player, a few winks - a very few winks, an inordinately inadequate few winks - and we're there. Voila! Back to earth and the U.S.A.! An hour or so more, laying over in Detroit, then a short jaunt to Cleveland. And then a one-hour drive to the old homestead in Massillon, Ohio. Home. Plop! I did it!

From the Philippines to Ohio, I traveled 12 time zones in reverse, at a speed of about 500mph, while the earth rotated in the opposite direction at about 1,000 miles per hour, at the equator, which means that I was going forward, into the future, at the rate of only 500mph. At that rate, it would take me 48 hours to travel for one day.

The plane left, for the direct flight from Japan to Detroit, at about 1PM on Tuesday afternoon, and arrived in Detroit at 3PM on Thursday. I took this into consideration, beginning immediately after reboarding the plane in Narita, Japan, and tried to develop an equation that would take into account all the variables and constants and spit out a meaningful number on the right side of the equal sign.

I ordered a beer and contemplated. When the numbers were all there, in my mind, I started calculating. I began with addition, my favorite and an easy warmup for subtraction, division and multiplication. The numbers were flying around in my head. Another beer slowed them down just a little. When I exhausted my supply of known calculations, I brought in tangent, sine and cosine, since we were traveling on an arc, anyway. I got stuck somewhere between the equator and the cosine of an arc produced by the minute hand on a clock, which has passed from 12 to 4:30. I went back and rounded off all numbers to two decimal places and drank a third beer. The combination produced a number: 2.4. I was satisfied.



Just a NOTE!

I recently received a comment from someone who wanted me to reply. I can't find a way to do that through Blogger.com and I don't have your email address to send a response. So, for you or anyone else who wants to contact me, I have created an email account just for this blog. Please address your emails to Living.Paradise@aol.com.

There is a period between the two words. I put it there, but on this screen I can't see the damn thing. Not that my eyes are getting old or that I need new glasses or anything like that. Ha! (The kids call me 'Old carabaw'. That's okay. It's a majestic animal, in my opinion.)

Mark

Three Posts from the Parish Pew

These three posts are from over a year ago. I put them away, on my laptop and then couldn't find them when I wanted to post. Never mind. Here they are:


Father, Son and...Holy Ghost, is  that a Dog!


Sunday, Sept. 19, 2010

After breakfast, on Sunday mornings, we go to church. We started that a few weeks ago. I went to Catholic Church until I was seventeen and quit for lack of inspiration to continue. But this is clearly different. For one thing, I really like the music. I can't understand the words but the music is beautiful and the choir, though small, sings their heart out. My lack of understanding suits my lack of faith just perfectly.

I never considered church a place for entertainment, but the last two Sundays have changed my mind. This morning, a very nice-looking dog - beefy and well-groomed - walked right through the middle of church, in the middle of the service, from one side to the other. He looked like a cross between a Scottish Terrier and a Yellow Lab. He came in the south door of St. Gregory's and exited the north door. And then, a few minutes later, he did the same thing in the other direction. I didn't think it was a Catholic dog: it didn't stop for holy water and the sign of the cross at the entrance and it didn't genuflect in front of the altar when it reached the center isle. He marched right through like he owned the place, and with a hurried gate that let us all know he had matters of importance out the opposite door. No time for lolly-gagging. Same thing on his return to the first side; marching with his head erect and with an air like he was the archbishop come to see that all was proper and in order.

Either no one else noticed him or he was such a regular customer that they paid no attention. I thought it was pretty funny. I'm not used to animals in church and in this dog, and the sparrows and swallows, have free reign. The birds build nests are all over place, close to the ceiling. They come and go throughout the service and add their part to the music.

I've also seen a few cats hanging out in the archway entrances to catch a nap in the shade. But cats have a mind of their own. They are not about to accept a belief system with rules that just might interfere with their habits and preferences. So, they are content to sleep on the fringes of Catholicism without actually entering its sanctum. Not so the dog, though it seems he's in the habit of just passing through, not tarrying long enough to be penetrated by the restrictive dogma that we humans crave.

When church was over, I asked Emelie if she happened to notice the presence of the dog. She said “yes, it's Father Jerry's dog.” hat explains a lot, though I think one of the herding breeds would be more appropriate, under the circumstances. 



After all, He's just "God", spelled backwards.
Oct. 3, 2010

The dog showed up again today. (I wonder what the priest named him?)  He was very late for mass. Came waltzing right in, in the middle of his master’s sermon, from the door behind and to the right of the altar. (If my rusty, Catholic memory serves me right, it’s called the ‘Sacristy’.) With his head held high; wagging his tail like nobody’s business, he pranced right up to the statue of Mary, at the front, right of the altar and paused. Mary was standing on a makeshift dais, a cloth-covered table. Pooch was very close to one of its legs. He looked up at Mary, his tongue hanging out of his mouth. Then he sniffed the table leg. At that moment, I became very interested in the subject of nature versus nurture; sin versus virtue. (Is that redundancy?)

My eyes were riveted to his foot, closest to the table. That foot started to rise. My muscles tensed just a little and I felt a sense of impending adventure, like the moment just prior to peeing in the swimming pool, as a child (thought I’d better add that note), despite all the admonitions to the contrary. 

His foot settled back to the sacred marble floor and he trotted away, down the steps and into the congregation, heading right for a pew about halfway back. He went to sleep on the floor, his head hidden from view under the seat of the pew, beside a prayerful congregant who made a point of demonstrating his pious and dutiful nature by paying no apparent notice to the dog.

I elbowed my wife. “Did you see the dog?” I asked.

I don’t know how my mom does it, or how women do it, for that matter. Communicate, I mean. I’ve listened to every conversation that my mom and wife have had on the telephone or via computer. (They’ve never met in person.)  Not one time has my mother ever said, “… and if he acts up in church, give him one of those condescending, sidelong glances that indicate disgust and carry a heavy threat of consequences.”

With my head down and my tail between my legs I sat back quietly, envious of the dog. 




Church, Beer, a Crazy Lady and Bloody Underwear: A Perfect Sunday.
Sometime in  late 2010

I was in church this morning when the crazy lady showed up. The timing was right, as I was about to do whatever a good, tired Christian does on a Sunday morning when the sermon lulls him into thinking he is at home with a cold beer, in front of the T.V., during  half-time’s thrilling commentator assessment.

If she wouldn’t have had that 12” X  12”, quarter-inch piece of plywood, things would have worked out all different. As it was, when she slammed it down on the elbow resters in front of her, the bang cleared out the first three rows of believers. I never saw a fart clear pews that fast.

The ushers always sit in rows 1 and 2. They had on their usherly uniforms of pastel-yellow dresses. These handsome, aging ladies were crowned with lacy, matching head covers bordered in white. They looked like two rows of yellow birds on the telephone wire. When they got up in a hurry, and cleared away with equal haste, I thought for a moment I might save a few pisos at collection time. It wasn’t my luck. They only flew back a few rows and resettled, leaving one lone woman in a blue top, front and center in the first pew.

People around me were chattering away about the incident. Emelie was talking to the two women in front of us. Here in Ginatilan, I am used to being on the outside of a conversation, without a clue. And I must say that I am thankful for my ignorance – Father, Son and Holy Ghost, Amen. English is my first and only language, thus far, but I am learning the local vernacular with a bit of ambivalence about the outcome.

Gossip is tiring! I never realized to what degree. Nor did I notice the extent. When one person leaks a little of it over the backyard fence, that woman doesn’t realize that the few drops she spills into the ears of her neighbor has anything to do with the flood that results from the thousands adding theirs to the town bucket.

People probably talk about me a lot. I know they do. They look; they laugh. I smile. I hope that doesn’t change. I like to think that all of them have only friendly and endearing thoughts about me. Education could ruin the bliss of my ignorance. Maybe it’s fortunate that I’m a slow learner. I memorize about 4 or 5 words of Cebuano a week and by the following week have forgotten 6. It’s taking a bite out of my English vocabulary.

So, I knew that the church gossip was about the lady in blue, in the front pew. And I was happy just to sit and listen to the twitter around me, the way you listen to the important chatter of the chicken coop and allow it to be the pleasant background noise that it is.

I’ve drifted. I was talking about the crazy woman. I will get back to that in just a moment, but a preface to this morning’s events, though not necessary, adds a little color to the story. Last night we slept just as peacefully as we usually do, with the fan on high and blocking out all sound shy of the thunder resulting from a direct lightning strike, which is slightly louder than the horn of the bus from Cebu City as it passes and toots right in front of our door, in the hours between midnight and 4AM.

Emelie was the first to get out of bed this morning, an occurrence so rare as to make itself a suspect of cause when the day veered from straight and narrow to twists and bends of a most unusual nature. For instance: usually, we don’t have blood smeared on  the porch, in front of the door; usually, there is not a pair of women’s jogging pants hanging from the bamboo fence, with fresh blood in the crotch; and usually, there is no piece of cardboard with a pool of liquid smelling strongly of piss, on the porch.

There is no point in boring you with the intermediary details, so we can just go back to the lady in the front row of the church with the blue top. But to fill in where lengthy description is lacking, that woman smelled like bladder control was an issue, not only for the present, but in days passed as well. A discriminating nose would be able to discern the several day’s worth of aging urine, with the added bouquet of monthly blood.

She was instantly dubbed “the crazy woman”. I was proud of Father Jerry. His sermon gave no evidence of interruption when the ungodly slam shook the congregation from whatever reverie held those parishioners in their inattentive state (I was one, remember?).  Thanks be to God.

I watched the ladies in yellow as they attempted to hide their ruffled feathers with nervous laughter and giggles. They were scared shitless.

The gap in the congregation around the crazy woman had as subtle an appearance as a missing tooth in an ear-to-ear grin.

Surprisingly, the woman sat quietly throughout the rest of service. After communion she got up and went to the back of the church, where she communed with God solely in the company of her own stink and pew. So be it.

The really funny part to this whole story is the gate to the bamboo fence that surrounds our house. The whole incident, be it good, bad or indifferent, is worth the tickle it gives me every time I think of that gate – the same one which the crazy woman passed through on her way to pissing on our porch, except that it has been “updated”, with Fort Knox style fortification, since her visit..

Bamboo is a grass. Let that serve as a hint to the crux of the issue I am about to present. Bamboo has a certain kind of strength. But that kind of strength is not the sort that can prevent a weakened, mangy dog from getting to the other side of the fence for a meatless and sun-parched bone. (I hope you’re getting my drift.) In addition, the spaces between the horizontal pieces of bamboo are large enough to allow passage of anything a fence could possibly be designed to keep out.

Aux contraire, the gate. A charging herd of elephants would pile themselves up on the outside of that gate, if they could be convinced to charge in single file and not cheat by stepping out of line to blow down the fence.

I know who made that gate. I’m not telling you. No sir, Chinese water torture and the rack couldn’t persuade me to do so. My marriage means too much for me to go around blabbing about a thing like that.

Amen!







A Chunk of Evening, Well-Spent

Monday,  March 5, 2012

 I pissed away the last half hour before sunset, sitting on my front porch, looking out to the sea, and listening to a goat and a chicken in a farewell duet to the setting orb. It sucked, according human standards. The goat lowed an irregular, mournful note over and over, while the hen clucked out a regular beat and let out a loud, happy cackle every six or eight notes. The sound of the ocean lapping the shore was the background music. Its tempo lagged that of the chicken, and was unaffected by the chicken's choice of beat. Having pounded out its own rhythm since day one, it wasn't going to follow the lead of impertinent upstarts.

I could have been doing something worthwhile. After all, there is always an unfinished job to tie up (or screw up. Its my choice, after all.) or a new project to start, or even just the kitchen table to wipe off for the umpteenth time today. Life is a never-ending stream of such stuff. Know what I mean? As I sat there on the porch, adding nothing to life, but just taking it all in, a whole list of things I could do never even entered my consciousness. I mean, I thought of nothing. It's awfully hard to feel guilty about not getting things done when those things never even occur to you, in the first place. Thank god.

So, the sun set; the chicken and goat duet gave way to the sound of crickets. The sea changed clothes, from sunset red to moonlight silver. I held Shane in my arms, in the front yard, and we looked at the moon and talked  to it.

Nothing much noteworthy has occurred since then, and that's just fine with me.